11/15/2022 0 Comments Peavey power amplifier![]() The sockets will be mounted from the chassis. Likewise, the holes in the new ceramic sockets need to be enlarged to the same extent. Here, the chassis holes are enlarged to pass a #8 machine screw. The new sockets will be held in with #8 stainless fasteners. As we know, heat rises, so the sockets get hot during normal operation. These tubes hang base side up, thus the base clamps keep the tubes firmly in the socket. Note the magnet, which attracts the steel shavings and keeps the mess to a minimum. Here, we’re drilling out the pop rivets that hold the sockets onto the chassis. Subsequent testing showed that the original phenolic tube sockets were either contaminated or were carbon tracked. This is a nice side view of all the components, flying above the printed circuit board. The original Peavey documentation was ambiguous on this point. I went with four screen resistors, as I believe that using two was an engineering oversight. The Peavey Mace amp uses six 6L6 tubes and has six screen resistors. The Peavey Deuce uses four 6L6 tubes but only had two screen resistors the other screens were tied to the plate voltage. Here is a picture of the Teflon tubing at work.Īll of the components are installed now. To bridge the gaps in the copper, bare solid wire will be soldered in place, and insulated from the rest of the circuit with this Teflon tubing. The copper around the mounting hole is gone, so the lead of this component will be sweat soldered to the surviving trace. The new components will be placed above the surface of the board to allow for cooling and to insulate each part from the live circuit traces below each component. The remaining copper is trimmed back to where it is still attached to the laminate core.Ĭomparing the circuit board to the layout, we can verify where the traces and components actually should go.īoth sides of the circuit board are now spotless. It’s too old to replace Peavey has no stock. With the circuit board cleaned up, we can see if it can be repaired. The rag gives some place for the mess to go. Lots of alcohol is used to clean off all the rosin flux. Lots of rosin flux was used to clean off all the solder. This printed circuit board will be rebuild, and all the components will be moved to the solder side of the board. I wonder if someone poked the wires a little too far, so that the ends touched the chassis? This is the underside of the amplifier circuit board. With a little attention to detail, the circuit board comes off the tube sockets. To remove the amplifier circuit board, the tube socket pins must be unsoldered and the wires removed. Maybe this happened when the tubes were installed the wrong direction, because of the missing guide posts? The amplifier circuit board has seen some significant pyrolysis. The jacks are wired together and the jacks are wired directly to the output transformer. This pic is to document that these inside star washers should be placed between the jack and the chassis.īoth jacks shall be replaced with new ones. ![]() ![]() The pin contact has been bent all the way out so that the plug cannot touch it. The output jacks on the rear of the chassis have been damaged. See the little bump in the black rubber, next to the 350? Poor little spider.Īll of the high voltage capacitors show signs of venting. We’ll set this aside in a safe place for now. The reverb tank bag is screwed down to the bottom of the unit.Įverything here is intact, no damage, transducers are OK. ![]() Note that the scratches on the tube base indicate that the tube was inserted incorrectly. However, this 10A fuse is the wrong part. The fuse is intact insofar as the red pilot light turns on when power is applied. This sometimes helps with hum reduction, although the three wire AC cord defeats one side of the switch. The ‘ON/ON’ function allows the user to capacitively couple the chassis to one side of the AC line. ![]() We will need to look at this on the inside of the chassis. The Fender switch scheme for tube amplifiers sometimes puts both switches in the back, and of course, I always select the wrong one because I have to reach around where I can’t see to work the switch. The standby switch is on the front, and the power switch is on the back. This unit uses an odd solid state phase shifter scheme and a mechanical reverb unit. The ‘effects’ channel has a little more tonal control. The LEDs illuminate to show channel selection. This Peavey needed some work before it could be added to David’s tonal arsenal. This refurbishment effort left NONE of those blocks untouched. Typical guitar amplifiers can be described in terms of functional blocks – power supply, preamplifier, power amplifier, and loudspeakers. WARNING – A very long blog post awaits you. ![]()
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